Before You Start Your Locs, Choose Your Size and Parting
There is something undeniably striking about a good head of locs. They can become part hairstyle, part identity and, after enough time, almost a visual record of your life. But before you sit in a chair and confidently tell your loctician, “Alright, lock me up,” there are a few decisions worth making first.
Locs are a process, not an instant hairstyle.
Your hair may look perfectly neat when you leave the salon and then spend the following weeks shrinking, puffing, frizzing and occasionally behaving as though nobody consulted it about this new arrangement. That does not necessarily mean anything has gone wrong. Your hair is beginning the process of tangling, matting and developing into mature locs.
Before choosing a starter method, think seriously about loc size.
Smaller sections generally create more locs and a finer appearance, while larger sections result in fewer, thicker locs. Medium-sized locs often sit somewhere comfortably between the two and can provide plenty of styling flexibility.
There is no universally perfect size. The right choice depends on your hair density, desired appearance, lifestyle and how much maintenance you are willing to deal with. If you imagine yourself eventually wearing ponytails, elaborate styles or updos, smaller or medium locs may offer greater flexibility. If you prefer something bold, full and relatively low in loc count, larger locs may be more appealing.
Then comes something many beginners overlook: the parting system.
Your parts form the foundation of your locs and influence how they fall, how much scalp is visible and how certain hairstyles look later.
Common options include:
- Square parts – clean, structured and one of the most familiar starter-loc patterns.
- Brick-lay parts – staggered sections that help prevent long, obvious scalp lines.
- Diamond parts – more decorative and visually distinctive.
- Triangle parts – geometric and eye-catching.
- Crescent parts – curved sections that create a softer, more organic pattern.
- Freeform or irregular parts – less uniform and ideal for someone wanting a more natural appearance.
This is one stage where bringing reference photos to a loctician can save you plenty of future confusion. Talk about the mature look you want, not simply how attractive the starter locs will look on day one.
And think carefully before saying, “Just do whatever you think looks good.”
That sentence sounds wonderfully carefree until six months later when you are standing in front of the mirror counting locs and wondering how you entered a lifelong relationship with 147 tiny responsibilities.
Your locs will change dramatically as they mature, but their foundation matters. Spend a little extra time choosing your size and parting before the journey begins.
5 Popular Ways to Start Locs
Once you know roughly how you want your mature locs to look, you can decide how to start them. There is no single method that is best for everyone. Hair texture, lifestyle, maintenance preferences and desired appearance all matter.
1. Comb Coils
Comb coils are one of the most popular ways to start locs, especially on tightly coiled hair. Small sections of hair are twisted into coils using a comb or the fingers.
They create a clean, defined starter-loc appearance and give you plenty of control over size and placement.
The downside is that young coils can unravel, particularly during washing, so the early stage may demand a little patience.
2. Two-Strand Twists
Two-strand twists are another common starter method. Two sections of hair are twisted around each other and gradually begin locking as the hair matures.
They often look fuller than comb coils during the starter stage and can already resemble a finished hairstyle while you wait for the locking process to progress.
You may continue seeing the original twist pattern for months. That is normal. Over time, the pattern generally becomes less noticeable as the loc matures.
3. Braids or Plaits
Locs can also begin as small braids.
Braids tend to remain secure, which can make them useful for people whose hair unravels easily or who need a starter style capable of handling regular activity.
The main trade-off is that the braid pattern can remain visible for quite some time before becoming fully incorporated into the mature loc.
4. Interlocking
Interlocking involves passing the loc through the root in a particular pattern to secure new growth.
It can create a very firm foundation and may work particularly well for active lifestyles, frequent washing or hair textures that struggle to remain in coils or twists.
Technique matters, however. Excessive tension or poor interlocking practices can place unnecessary stress on the scalp and roots, so beginners may benefit from having an experienced loctician establish or maintain this method.
5. Freeform or Semi-Freeform Locs
Then there is what I like to call the “my hair and I will figure this out together” method.
Freeform locs develop with minimal manipulation, allowing the hair to naturally separate, tangle and lock. Semi-freeform locs receive slightly more intervention, such as separating sections periodically to prevent unwanted merging.
The results are less uniform than traditionally maintained locs—and that natural individuality is precisely why many people choose them.
The best starter method is not automatically whichever one is trending online. Choose the method that works with your hair, your desired result and the level of maintenance you realistically want to maintain for years to come.
How to Care for Starter Locs Without Driving Yourself Crazy
Once your starter locs are installed, one of the hardest things you may have to learn is simply to leave them alone.
Constant twisting, pulling, styling and checking will not magically make your hair lock overnight. Your hair needs time to do what hair does.
You should also forget the old idea that locs should never be washed. A clean scalp is still important. During the starter stage, however, you may need to wash more carefully depending on your method and how securely your locs have formed. If they were professionally installed, ask your loctician when they recommend your first wash.
When washing, concentrate on cleansing the scalp and thoroughly rinsing products from the hair. Locs can trap residue, which is why excessively heavy waxes, creams and oils are not always your friends.
Your bathroom shelf does not need to resemble the inventory section of a beauty-supply store.
Keep your routine simple. Keep the scalp clean, moisturize when necessary, protect your hair at night with satin or silk, and maintain your roots according to your chosen method without constantly manipulating them.
And then there is frizz.
Please allow the frizz to exist.
Starter locs are going to have awkward stages. They may shrink dramatically. Some may become thicker than others. One may decide to point east while the remaining population has apparently agreed to travel west.
Welcome to the loc journey.
As the months pass, the hair begins budding, tightening and developing more of the appearance people associate with mature locs. Different areas of your head may progress at different speeds, and that is completely normal.
Take photographs during those early months. What may feel untidy or frustrating today can become one of the most interesting parts of looking back on your progress later.
Ready to Start Your Loc Journey?
Starting locs is not about achieving perfect hair overnight. It is about creating the right foundation, choosing a starter method that suits you and then having enough patience to let your hair transform.
Think carefully about your loc size, parting system and starter method before committing. Find an experienced loctician if you are unsure, keep your scalp and hair healthy, avoid unnecessary buildup and give your locs time to become themselves.
After all, some of the best things in life take a little time to mature.
Want to Explore the Full Loc Journey?
See My Full Loc Journey, Care & Maintenance Series
This story is part of my complete loc series, where I share what I learned from starting locs, the mistakes I made along the way, how my routine changed as they matured and the products that eventually made maintenance much easier.
Which Loc Style Would You Choose?
Coils, twists, braids, interlocking or freeform—and would you go with square, diamond, triangle or something completely different for your parts? Let me know what your starter-loc plan would look like.
